Its always confusing when Amber, which is also one of the most important fragrance families, is discussed in fragrances. It gets even more confusing when the terms amber and ambergris take hold. Amber, also known as fossilized amber, comes from plant resin and is a fancy note in perfumes, while on the other hand, ambergris is an animal source which is excreted by some species. of sperm whales. The two are two totally different notes and when it comes to the descriptions of their scents there is a marked difference between them. AMBERGRIS Ambre gris: Gray Amber in French Source: Excreted by some species of Physeter catodon sperm whale. Color: gray to black Odor profile of fresh ambergris: Fecal odors Aged Ambergris Scent Profile: Salty, musky, sweet with a hint of tobacco leaf, leather-like and has an animal marine scent. Photo by Peter Kaminski Since perfumers can explain it better when it comes to scent notes, its worth learning what perfumers Anya McCoy, Mandy Aftel, and Abdussalaam Attar shared in their thoughts on this topic. Perfumer Anya McCoy says, I have used ambergris in several of my fragrances. I have tinctures that are eight years old. The smell of ambergris varies depending on the type, as there are many qualities with different scents. described as sailor, hay, slightly fecal, warm, creamy. And its scent is only part of the equation: more important are the transformative properties it brings to the perfume formula. It marries and exalts other aromatics in a way no other substance does. Ambergris doesnt even have to be noticeable in the scent. Perfumer Mandy Aftel shares: Ambergris is whale waste. I sampled 9 different types of ambergris and the freshest and darkest has a very strong fecal note. I also have songs that are over 60 years old and they are sparkling amber notes. with animal undertones. It is transformative. There is a shimmering quality. It reflects light with its scent. It is like an olfactory gemstone. According to perfumer Abdussalaam Attar: Ambergris is a pheromone molecule, and is traditionally used in Ayurvedic and Unani medicine as are other pheromones like musk deer, civet and castoreum. Civet and ambergris are like the scent of a woman. High price, ambergris is hardly used any more in perfumery, where it has been replaced by the synthetic molecule ambreina. AMBERGRIS, also called ambergris in French, is a gray to black flammable substance that looks like lumps that can be as small as a ball and as big as the size of a head. Produced in the hindgut of some species of Sperm whale Physeter catodon. The formation of ambergris in the gut of the sperm whale is attributed to a secretion produced in response to the constant irritation caused by the sharp beaks of squid and cuttlefish and their indigestible parts, or perhaps it is simply produced as a means of protection against damage caused by them, and is periodically excreted. It is believed to be a pathological process, but it is only a guess. It was a material highly valued for its medicinal, aphrodisiac and scent properties, even in ancient times. Fresh ambergris is black, semi-viscous and almost smells of feces and has no value in perfumery. But as it ages through years of exposure to the sun, air and ocean, it oxidizes and hardens into a pleasantly aromatic substance that floats on the surface of the sea. It is mainly used in perfumery as a dye to fix delicate odors, and it is said to have an extraordinary wake. It is almost completely volatile on heat, insoluble in water or in alkali hydroxides, but soluble in hot alcohol, volatile oils, chloroform, fats and ether. According to a source, In 1820, two French chemists, Joseph-Bienaimï¿½ Carentou and Pierre-Joseph Pelletier first isolated, characterized and named amberine, the main fragrant active ingredient in ambergris. Since then, many papers have been published on the chemistry of compounds. with a scent similar to ambergris, in particular the more fragrant oxidative derivatives of amberine like ambrox. These are all labdanoid terpenes that are found in a remarkable variety of plants, animals and microorganisms Sources like Monarda didyma L. bee balm, a source of labdanum are a natural substitute for ambergris and Cistus ladanifer L. is a classic source of labdanum. These botanical extracts and others are the basis of fixatives and woody and sweet scents in the modern perfume industry which, for the most part, uses synthetics instead of natural substances. Cistus Labdanum Since ambergris is expensive and rare, what is mainly used in perfumes are synthetic substitutes. Speaking of its chemical constituents, three major components isolated from ambergris are triterpene alcohol, ambrein, epicoprostanol, and coprostanone. Amberin is the main active ingredient in ambergris and has a sweet smell with hints of caramel and tobacco. It is used in harmony with musks, animal notes and woods. On the other hand, ambrox or ambroxan is a sweet, woody and musky note. Salt is another aspect of scents compared to ambergris, which captures the bright and fresh feeling of the sea in which ambergris is nourished. In fragrances we meet the sweet, animal and salty facets of ambergris, and the fragrances that you can find depending on this are: Russian Amber, Classic, What Love - Ambrien D&G Light Blue, Calypso, Portrait of a Woman - Ambroxan Eau des Merveilles, Musks Kublai Khan - Salty aspect AMBER Amber also known as fossilized amber Source: Fossilized resin from Pinus succinifera and other trees Color: golden brown, orange, yellow, red, green, brown, white, blue and black. Scent Profile: Amber is a whimsical note in perfumery that was primarily inspired by its golden color and is a base accord of labdanum, benzoin and vanilla. This agreement may vary. Speaking of amber, it is a weather hardened resin from Pinus succinifera and other trees. In perfumery, it is a note of fantasy inspired above all by the golden color and the shine of the resin. Not coming from real resin, it is a fairly basic accord of labdanum, vanilla and benzoin that adds sweetness and warmth to the scents and this is mainly used in oriental, chypre and fern compositions. According to perfumer Abdussalaam Attar, In perfumery all soft resinous things are amber notes, you can count Tonka, Peru Balsam, Tolu Balsam, Benzoin, Labdanum and cistus for example. You can add subtle notes of Almond to the mixtures of these scents. , tobacco, vanilla for example. Amber in perfumery is a subjective fragrance, it is a note, not an essence. Mandy Aftel shares her Amber recipe from her book Essence and Alchemy: A Natural History of Perfume page 97. Here is a recipe for a very beautiful and simple amber that can be worn alone or used as a base for a perfume: 30 drops of labdanum, 120 drops of benzoin, 6 drops of vanilla Before you can measure labdanum, you will likely need to heat it to drain; put the resin bottle in a small bowl of very hot water just boiled until it liquefies. Then measure the drops in a small bottle and add the benzoin and vanilla. Tighten the bottle cap securely and shake to mix. Label this bottle Amber.